RAGTOP CLEANING TIPS

Convertible tops are not like the rest of your car’s exterior. the vinyl can absorb stains which take more that  a simple wash to get rid of .

avoid using abrasive cleaners such as scouring powders when you clean your convertible top. these products will clean the surface now but the top will begin to show signs of damage later on. It is wise to use a high quality cleaner specifically designed for vinyl convertible tops. These cleaner should be applied in the shade and the top should be cool to the touch.

When cleaning the plastic rear window, do not use a glass cleaner, since the chemicals in these can actually damage the plastic. also dont press to hard no matter how soft the towel your using is as you might scratch the plastic. There are products available designed specifically for cleaning plastic windows. Be sure to apply these cleaners in a side to side motion since these windows are very prone to swirl marks well. To make your top look new use a lint roller at the end of every wash to pick up any lint your towel has left behind.

Love Your Leather

Leather is a special material with specific characteristics and needs to be cared for accordingly. using cleaner not specifically designed for leather can cause damage so make sure that you use a product specifically designed for leather on you r upholstery.

Leather has tiny pores that allow  moisture to pass through. these small pores absorb perspiration and once the water evaporates, salt dirt is left behind. These contaminants draw moisture from the oils in the leather and cause it to harden and crack.

Only products designed to clean leather can get into these pores and lift out the debris. it’s also a good idea to apply a conditioner after cleaning. this will restore essential oils and keep the leather looking like new.

leather is like a sponge when it is new it is full of essential oils but over time sweat, heat and UV rays dry it out. with proper care, your leather will stay looking g new.

WHAT IS MICROFIBER?

Microfiber is the terminology used to describe ultra-fine manufactured fibers and the name given to the technology of developing these fibers.  Fibers made using microfiber technology, produce fibers which weigh less than 0.1 denier.  The fabrics made from these extra-fine fibers provide a superior hand, a gentle drape and incredible softness.
Comparatively, microfibers are two times finer than silk, three times finer than cotton, eight times finer than wool, and one hundred times finer than a human hair.  Currently, there are four types of synthetic microfibers being produced.  These include acrylic, nylon, polyester and rayon.  In this article, I will be discussing the most common blend of microfiber material used in automotive detailing applications; nylon and polyester.

Automotive microfiber is created by combining two DuPont fiber inventions: polyester and polyamide (nylon).  The polyamide is used as the core of the hybrid fiber (generally 20 to 30% of the content) and the polyester is the outer skin (70 to 80%).  Each fiber has specific qualities that, when properly blended, can be used to weave functionally specific fabrics.  For the purposes of this discussion, I’m specifically referring to toweling and other automotive detailing products.

The best way to understand microfiber engineered for cleaning is to look at a cross section of the fiber itself.  As you can see in the diagram below, the fiber is sliced into wedges (polyester) and attached to spokes (polyamide).  Changing the fiber design allows cloth to be woven that scrubs, polishes or absorbs (e.g., functionally specific fabric).  This was not previously possible.  In the design pictured, the polyester wedges have the ability to scrape away microscopic bits of dirt while the polyamide spokes create a wicking action that pulls liquid into the fiber.  Many microfiber yarn manufactures claim their microfiber yarn will absorb seven to eight times its weight in water, nearly double the capacity of cotton.

AUTOMOTIVE MICROFIBER PRODUCTS

There is a diverse offering of microfiber products for automotive detailing, including towels, applicators, gloves, dusters and wash mitts.  In the towels category alone, you will find dozens of different weaves, material weights, fabric blends, colors and sizes.  It’s almost dizzying when you look at the different products side-by-side.  Here’s how I categorize microfiber towels for my own use:

1.  General Purpose – This is typically a microfiber towel (16″ by 16″) with a standard terry cloth weave and an 80/20 blend of polyester and polyamide.  The towel has no specific purpose, and will be equally adept wiping paint, glass, vinyl, plastic and leather.  This towel will have a medium thickness (plush-ness) nap.  If you do a lot of quick detailing on your car, this will be the towel you use most frequently.

2.  Glass & Polishing – Microfiber cloths that work well for polishing and glass cleaning seem to have the same basic characteristics.  First, the towel should be 100% lint free.  In most cases, this means the weave is going to have a shorter nap than a general purpose towel.  Many people believe that a good glass towel will leave as little water as possible so the droplets will evaporate without leaving a spot.  A good glass towel needs scrubbing power to successfully remove the residues that cause streaking.  It’s the same characteristic that makes a good polishing cloth.

3.  Drying – There are two different microfiber toweling weaves that make good drying towels: terry cloth and waffle (Piqué) weave.  I have found that a short terry loop or one of the offset (longer on one side than the other) terry loops work well for drying.  If you choose a microfiber terry cloth with a heavy, plush nap, you won’t be able to wring it out when it gets wet.  My favorite drying towel material is the Piqué fabric that mimics a waffle pattern.  It has the ability to wick up water like nothing else I’ve found or tested.  According to Leo Cerruti, a manufacturer of natural microfiber products, “[Piqué fabric] isn’t more absorbent  than terry but the ridges act as hundreds of little squeegees which push the water up into the cups giving the fabric time to absorb.” As with the terry material, it’s best to find a fabric that’s not too heavy, or you won’t be able to wring it out when it gets saturated.

4.  Cleaning – There are a few microfiber weaves that are marketed specifically as “cleaning towels”.  The nap is very tight and course, and the microfiber strands are not split.  These towels have very little absorbency.  The intended purpose of these towels is janitorial work, not car detailing.  What I have found works best for me are hand towel size waffle weave towels and polishing towels.

5.  Final Buffing – A couple years ago microfiber “suede” fabrics hit the clothing market.  These fabrics crossed over into the automobile detailing arena as final wipe towels and final buffing bonnets.  I have not been overly impressed with the fabric for automotive use.  It is soft, but it does not seem to perform any better on paint (for final buffing) than a general purpose towel.

You may have seen microfiber towels labeled for other uses, but I have not found anything to date that does not fit into the five categories I listed above.

After buying and using microfiber products for more than 1 year now, I have made some interesting observations:

1.  Look and feel is deceptive.  You cannot judge how a microfiber product will perform by its look or feel alone.  You must test.  Some towels that look and feel very soft and plush may, in reality, leave micro marring on a delicate paint finish.

2.  Color makes a significant difference.  Dark colors will not feel as soft as light colors.  You can take towels of the exact same fabric that are dyed different colors and the darker towel will not feel as plush or soft.

3.  Edge binding makes the most significant difference in towel safety (as a detailing towel).  Towels surge bound with heavy polyester thread or improperly cut by a hot wire are more likely to cause micro marring on your paintwork.

4.  The weave determines the best function of the towel, not the material blend or weight.  While it’s true that polyamide is more absorbent than polyester, a towel made from a blend of 70% polyester and 30% polyamide is not necessarily a better drying towel than an 80/20 blend (respectively).  The weave and fiber treatment (splitting) will determine the wicking ability of the towel as much or more than the material blend.

When comparing quality microfiber towels, here’s what you need to know to make an intelligent buying decision:

1.  Towel density is important.  Density is a measure of fibers per square inch of fabric.  The range for quality microfiber is 90,000 to 225,000 fibers per square inch.  Generally speaking, the higher the fiber count the better the towel will absorb water and clean.

2.  The ratio of the polyester and polyamide blend is important.  While 80% polyester and 20% polyamide is typical, a 70/30 blend will absorb water faster.  As polyamide is much more expensive than polyester, you can expect to pay more for a 70/30 blend.

3.  Make sure you look at the weave and fabric thickness (plush-ness) of the towel.  Depending on the specific task the cloth is designed to perform, the fiber ends may be hooked (for cleaning), feathered (for polishing and glass cleaning), or tufted (for drying).

4.  We all know the saying; it costs more to make quality.  Microfiber is no different.  Quality construction is not always obvious, so let me share some observations.  The biggest complaint with automotive microfiber is that towels with cheap edging scratch your paint.  There are two possible reasons.  First, the factory uses a hot wire system to cut their towels.  If not properly adjusted, or if a cheap machine is used, the hot wire will melt the fabric.  When polyester and nylon melt, they turn into hard plastic.  The second complaint is that the towel creates excessive lint.  Microfiber lint is caused by towels with a high pile or a broad weave using a fiber split that’s inappropriate.  The high pile or loose weave allow the fibers to break off, creating lint.  The same split fiber used in a towel with a higher fabric density will lint less or not at all.  Don’t assume that a towel that does not lint is a high quality towel.  The cheapest towels don’t lint because they do not have split fibers.

MAINTAINING MICROFIBER

I’ve read a lot of tips on how to clean and care for microfiber.  People seem to be all over the map with their recommendations.  It’s really very simple.

The best general purpose cleaner is a liquid detergent.  It’s better to use too little than too much.  Liquid is recommended over powder because some powders do not completely dissolve and the granules will lodge in the toweling.

Wash in cold water only.  Warm water can be tolerated, but hot water cannot.  Polyester and polyamide both shrink in hot water.  If you wash in hot water the fibers will shrink and the towel will not perform as intended.

Do not use fabric softeners of any kind.  The softener will become lodged in the microfiber reducing its ability to absorb water, clean and pick up dirt.  In short, you’ll have a soft towel that’s useless.

Do not dry above medium heat.  Treat microfiber towels the same as you would your delicate clothing.  Drying with high heat is worse that washing in hot water.

At Sonus, we have created a special detergent specifically designed for washing detailing products out of microfiber and foam detailing accessories. Sonus Der Wunder Wasche  is a highly concentrated liquid detergent that a cleaning solution was developed specifically for cleaning microfiber towels.  Sonus Der Wunder Wasche is an active cleaner designed to restore microfiber towels, wash mitts, applicators and foam buffing pads to their as-new condition. Der Wunder Wasche is an engineered blend of micro cleaning agents designed to lift, emulsify and suspend waxes, polish residue, oils, proteins, silicones and soil for complete removal in the rinse water.

The Der Wunder Wasche formula cleans without bleach and softens through natural fiber lifting. With regular use, Der Wunder Washe extends the life of all microfiber textiles and foam pads.

The future of this wonderful technology is very bright.  Manufacturers are developing unique ways to deal with towel bindings to eliminate potential paint scratching problems.  Competition from the low-cost providers is keeping the quality towel prices in check.  We should expect to see better fabrics with new weaves and even higher thread counts in the near future

Teflon Car Wax

The Great Pretender

Teflon car wax is one of the biggest misunderstandings in the car care industry. There has been no evidence to substantiate the claims of products using this ingredient. Teflon, DuPont’s trade name for PFTE, gained notoriety as a non-stick surface from its use on frying pans. So someone got the brilliant idea that creating a Teflon wax for cars would keep bugs and dirt from sticking to the paint. The fact that nothing sticks to Teflon is one of the biggest reasons why it is not effective in waxes. It will not stick to paint either! In order for Teflon to stick to the cars paint, you would have to rough up the surface to create many microscopic scratches in the surface. Then the Teflon would have to be forced into those scratches with pressure and a temperature of greater than 572 degrees F. That’s how the finish is applied to frying pans. Do you really want to do that to your paint? And would that achieve your desired result? In actual fact, calling most of these products Teflon car wax is a misnomer. There is only a small percentage of this ingredient added to the wax. Not enough to have any real impact on the effectiveness of the product. But clever marketing continues to keep it in demand. Another popular way to market Teflon is as an autommotive paint sealant. Dealers and detailers are charging as much as $500 or more to coat a vehicle with Teflon. They tell their customers this sealant will last for 5 years without anything but periodic washings to maintain the shine. There is absolutely nothing that can be put on a vehicle finish for a long term maintenance free shine. The only way to keep you car looking great is with regular periodic cleaning and polishing.

HOW DOES DETAILING CLAY WORK

I frequently see detailing clay marketing information that reads something like this: “…clay pulls contamination off of your paint…” This statement sounds pretty ridiculous when you realize that you must lubricate the surface you’re 

cleaning with the detail clay. How in the world do you pull on something that’s wet and slippery? This myth was born from a fear of telling people the truth. Clay is an abrasive paint care system. Yet used properly, detailing clay is not abrasive to your car’s paint; it is abrasive to paint contamination.

Oh my goodness… did I really say that clay is an abrasive? You bet I did.

Read the patents on detailing clay and they describe very clearly that it is a mixture of a clay base (polybutene) and various abrasives. The primary detailing clay patent (U.S. Patent No. 5,727,993) identifies three unique elements (claim 57) used in concert:

“A method of polishing a protrusion or stain from a surface comprising; applying a plastic flexible tool to the surface, the plastic flexible tool comprising a plastic flexible material having mixed therewith an abrasive comprising grains from about 3 to 50 m in diameter and; applying a force to the plastic flexible tool such that a polishing force per area is applied by the plastic flexible tool to a protrusion or stain on the surface, and such that the amount of force per area applied to the surface is less than the amount of force per area applied to the protrusion or stain.”

Detailing clay is an abrasive system. If not used properly, detailing clay can cause light surface marring. There’s no need to fear if you use proper lubrication.

An easy way to think about detailing clay is simply this: detailing clay is a “selective polish” with a built-in applicator. Its job is to “polish away” dirt and surface contamination from paint, glass, chrome and plastic without polishing the surface itself. A pretty simple concept, isn’t it? Detailing clay technology has been around for many years, with roots dating back to the 1930’s. That’s when the idea of combining polybutene (a soft plastic resin material) with abrasives was first put to paper.

Enough with the techno-speak; how does detailing clay really work?   What I 
learned from my research and speaking with experts is simply this:

• Detailing clay works by hydroplaning (floating) over the surface you’re cleaning on a thin layer of clay lubricant.
• When the clay (polish) encounters surface contamination, it abrasively grinds it away.
• Detailing clay shears off any foreign material above the level surface of the paint.

Those are scary words to a car enthusiast, but it’s an accurate description. You can see the end results of this “grinding” work by inspecting your clay. Does your clay have large particles sticking to it or does it have what appears to be a dirty film? It’s the latter, of course, and it’s proof that your clay is doing its job gently polishing away contamination.

Detailing clay formulation determines the optimal function of the clay and its potential to do damage when used improperly. As an example, professional grade clay that’s designed to remove paint overspray is very firm and contains abrasives equivalent to heavy rubbing compound. Used properly it will remove heavy overspray without damaging the paint. Used improperly, it can leave some pretty significant surface marring. That’s why it’s a professional product.

Most consumer grade detailing clays are designed to be used as an annual or semi-annual paint maintenance tool prior to polishing and waxing. At this frequency, these detailing clay products work great. Simply use the clay as part of your major detailing regimen. The problem we were beginning to see is that many car enthusiasts wanted to clay their vehicles frequently; as often as monthly. At this rate of use, some consumer grade detailing clay can begin to dull clear coat finishes. After all, it is an abrasive!

CLAY FACTS

Over the past four years I have received a lot of email questions regarding clay.  Here are some common questions and answers:

Q1. I dropped my clay on the ground.  Can I still use it?
A1. The safe answer is no.  Clay will pick up small particles of grit from the ground that will scratch your paint.

Q2. If I use clay do I still need to polish my paint?
A3. Yes.  Clay will not remove swirl marks, scratches or etching from acid rain or hard water spots.  Paint polish is still required to remove these paint defects.  If your paint is new or like-new, detailing clay will significantly reduce the amount of polishing required to keep your paint in good condition.

Q3. What is the best clay?
A3. What label do you like?  There are only a couple manufacturers of clay, and the technology is protected by U.S. patents.  Clay is manufactured with different levels of abrasiveness and colors to suite different applications.  There are some subtle differences in technology (plastic vs. elastic material) and the firmness of the material.  In general, softer clays are safer and easier to use.  A firm clay cleans better with a little more risk of scuffing or scratching.

Q4. Is it better to use soapy water or a spray lubricant?
A4. Both work equally well.  If you want to do the job fast, use a bucket of soapy water.  If you want to work inside or do a thorough job, use a spray lubricant.  With a spray lubricant you can wipe down each panel as you go and feel for areas you missed.

Q5. How do I store my clay? 
A5. If your clay did not come with a re-usable plastic container, store it in a plastic Ziploc bag.

Q6. Will clay remove my wax?
A6. In most cases, clay will “scrub off” wax protection.  Some paint sealants are hard enough to withstand being cleaned with clay, but most are not.

SUMMARY

Don’t overuse detailing clay. In my opinion, it is often over-prescribed as a cure-all. I think once or twice a year is adequate for most well-detailed cars. Be sure to use a proper lubricant.Choose a prewax cleaner with the least amount of cleaning and polishing capability necessary to get the job done without being harsh on your paint. The goal is to maintain your paint in excellent condition, not wear it out by over-polishing.

Polish this, Polish That, What is Polish?

Polishing Your Car’s Paint To Perfection
 

In a perfect world, you wouldn’t need to polish your car’s paint.  Cleaning and waxing is all that’s really necessary to protect and beautify your car’s finish.  Unfortunately, we don’t live in a perfect world.  Your car’s paint is bombarded by contaminants and assaulted by foreign objects every day.

Some automotive appearance experts suggest that it’s possible to maintain a car’s paint without polishing at all.  I’m not as optimistic.  I recommend polishing when it’s necessary to solve a specific problem or to achieve a desired result.  I will discuss advanced uses of polish in later chapters.  For now, you can think of polish as a tool for pre-wax cleaning and improving paint gloss.  A fine polish gently removes surface contamination and improves surface reflectivity.

UNDERSTANDING CAR POLISH

Before we can talk about polishing, we need to establish a common understanding of what polish is.  The word polish is highly misused throughout the car care and appearance industry.

For our purposes, a paint polish is an abrasive lotion or cream used to remove small amounts of the paint’s surface.  The cutting ability of the polish will determine the amount of paint removed with each hand stroke or each revolution of a buffer, as well as the resulting finish.  A fine polish will create a bright, glassy finish, whereas a coarse polish may cloud the paint’s surface.

Reasons to Polish Your Car’s Paint

Many people believe that cars come off the assembly line with perfect paint.  That’s far from the case.  There are many conditions that cause minor paint flaws requiring additional finishing work.  Dust nibs (small particles that land in the paint while it is still wet) are a good example.  Most car manufacturers take care of these problems at the factory using abrasive finishing materials.  Sometimes it is the car dealer who recognizes the flaw and fixes it.

Repairing minor paint flaws through polishing is not harmful to the paint system unless you remove too much paint.  If more than 50% of the clearcoat finish is removed, you stand a good chance of premature paint system failure.  If more than 75% of the clearcoat finish is removed, you will experience immediate paint system failure.  It can be a very fine dance between success and failure.

Here’s a general rule to follow.  If a scratch or other flaw can be felt with your fingernail, it’s too deep to be completely removed through polishing.  That’s not to say that polishing won’t help hide the flaw; it will.  Take a look at the following 3M diagram showing paint layers and minor scratches (marring) in the clearcoat surface.  These scratches can be removed completely through polishing, because more than 50% of the clearcoat would remain.  

 

If scratches run deep into the clear coat, as illustrated in our next 3M diagram, polishing cannot fix the problem.  However, polishing a deep scratch will hide or lessen the appearance of the problem.

 

Non-clearcoat finishes have the same basic rules.  You should not remove more than 50% of the top coat (color coat) finish when repairing a scratch or other paint flaws.

It is important to understand how a polish can be used to “hide”  scratches and other micro marring.

 

Use A Fine Polish To Refine The Finish

If your car did not require compounding to remove surface imperfections, that’s great.  You’re way ahead of the game.  Let’s get started on learning hand polishing techniques.

The purpose of polishing is not to fix paint imperfections.  That’s what we used the fine compound for in the previous step.  Polishing is used to refine the paint surface and to begin the process of glazing.  When a paint is fully glazed, it has taken on all of the natural gloss and reflection it can without assistance from a wax or sealant.

Just as with compounding, you need to adjust your thinking with polishing.  Many people and product manufacturers suggest using a terry cloth towel or terry cloth applicator to apply polish.  This is no longer the best polishing tool.

Today, the best tool for polishing is a high-quality foam applicator.  Likewise, for buffing off polish residue, do not use terry cloth or flat cotton toweling.  A good microfiber polishing cloth is far superior and is many times less abrasive than cotton terry cloth toweling.

The procedure for polishing is not much different than it is for compounding.  The idea is to keep the polishing applicator as flat to the paint surface as possible.

 

Polishing paint is a acquired skill.  It can take years to master.  If you’re planning to use a machine, my best advice is to practice on older cars.  Most importantly, select the correct polish for the job.  Use the chart at the beginning of the chapter to help determine which polish grade you should be using.  Once you’ve selected the right polish, make sure you use the right tools.

Sealant! What it is, and What it does!!

So last week we talked about Wax, what it does and what it is. Remember

1)Wax has a melting point of 155 o and on a hot day it doubles thats over 250 o.

2) its never 100% carnuba wax. carnuba wax is done in volume, most waxes only have 30% volume of wax other wise it would be as hard as a rock.

3)waxes dont remove scratches!!!!! they hide the scratches.

This week were gonna learn about Sealants. Not many people know this type of “wax” excist or is even available from us detailers.  Dealers normaly offer this service for over $400 up to $2000 on a vehicle.

NOw what’s a Sealant:

Synthetic sealants are polymer based and provide much more durability than even the best carnauba wax. They are liquid in form and apply very much like a liquid wax. It is usually suggested that most sealants cure for 12 to 24 hours before layering additional coats on the paint or applying wax over the sealant. Curing involves the cross-linking of polymer strands. When cross-linking is completed, the product has “cured.” Some sealants contain an accelerator, or are sold with a separate accelerator that is mixed with the sealant before use, which speeds up the cross-linking (curing) process. For best results, the surface of the vehicle should be properly prepared for a sealant, which involves cleaning and polishing the paint prior to application. Applying a sealant over a wax or surface contamination may inhibit the bonding of the product to the paint. Once you top a sealant with a wax you will not be able to apply additional layers of the sealant without first cleaning the paint and removing all the wax

The molecular structure of all polymers are based on a chain of carbon atoms, chemically it is a molecule formed by the chemical union of five or more identical combining units called monomers. A non-organic based wax formulated from polymers used to seal paint with a thin hard barrier. They are very durable and provide a very bright, but flat silvery shine. This type of product is a compromise as it does provide durability but lacks the properties of a Carnauba wax lacking both color and depth, and because of a polymer’s inherent Covalent (molecular) structure it cannot mimic the properties of a Carnauba wax.

Polymers used in sealants require a paint surface form a molecular bond to; they don’t do well when asked to bond to metal to provide protection. A clear coat (paint) has porosity, so they bond very well and provide the intended protection. Since clear coat paint has porosity, a durable bond is formed and provides the intended protection.

Process The presence of oil or water may inhibit the cross-linking process of a polymer or linking together of the chains (monomers or building blocks) to form a ‘structure’ by acting as a barrier and will compromise its strength, durability, drying time, and bonding. Be sure that the surface of the vehicle can be left undisturbed and free from rain and water (condensation, dew, etc)) until the polymer has cross-linked (12-24 hours) or the surface protection may be compromised.

That’s why you should avoid rain, even morning dew with any curing sealant layers for at least 12-72 hours (product dependent). So, when you spray water on to a curing sealant, you are compromising its durability.
Fracture/evaporation temperatures – Polymers 350oF (176°C), Acrylic resin 265 – 285oF (130 – 140°C) The term “melting point” when applied to polymers suggests not a solid-liquid phase transition but a transition from a crystalline or semi-crystalline phase to a solid amorphous phase. Melting temperature though abbreviated as simply Tm the property in question is more properly called the “crystalline melting temperature”. Among synthetic polymers, crystalline melting is only discussed with regards to thermoplastics, as thermosetting polymers will decompose at high temperatures rather than melt.

Polymer application-ease of product removal is inversely proportional (less product easier removal) to the amount used (0.5-1.0 oz should be sufficient for most vehicles).

Whats a wax? And what does it do?

Normaly when am at a company or doing my routine house calls there’s customers that ask to get a coat of wax on there vehicle because they see scratches or because they see swirl marks or just because they want there car protected. there’s a really big misconseption on what wax was invented for and what it really is made to do. Now i worked at  a car wash place for 3 years and i own a little electronic store next to a car wash. and i see them waxing cars at least 10 times a day in the middle of the lot were the sun is hitting at about 90 degrees. and we all know that it totals to twice the amount on the surface of a vehicle. so i gathered some info from different websites and came up with a brief discription. Remember that  you must prepare( clay bar) a vehicle before doing any type of waxing, polishing, or sealants. I have also wrote in bold the most important parts about waxing.

Wax: The word “wax” usually refers to a variety of organic substances that are solid at ambient temperature but become somewhat free-flowing liquids at slightly higher temperatures. The chemical composition of waxes is complex, but normal alkenes are always present in high proportion, and Covalent (molecular) weight profiles tend to be very varied.

The main commercial source of wax is crude petroleum, but not all crude oil refiners produce wax. Mineral wax can also be produced from lignite, plants, animals and even insects produce materials sold in commerce as wax. There is normally no more than 15% to 20% natural wax content in retail car care wax, some products also contain a high percentage of Diatomaceous earth, this helps to provide shine by its sleight abrading ability and is evidenced by the large amount of powder residue left on the car when the wax product carrier system evaporates.

Most car care product chemists agree that when it comes to a wax formulation there is no advantage between pastes, creams or liquids. It has more to do with production cost and marketing than; ease of application or removal, its protection or surface gloss abilities. The only ingredients that will make a difference is wax quality and percentage content, and its carrier system (i.e. type of solvent / silicone and / or mineral oils used)

Paste wax is just a thicker form of liquid wax, a different consistency, not necessarily even more or less solvents. All natural waxes require a solvent to soften them (in there natural state they are as hard as concrete and are sold as a solid block or as flakes) Some wax products use an emulsion (oil-in water) to keep more liquid without adding more solvent, which in high concentrations could affect durability as it dilutes the wax content.

Carnauba (Brasil) wax molecules are closed linked, which means that they only but up together to protect the surface, they sacrifice paint depth for increased durability. The open linked Polymer molecules form together to create a chain like effect. Polymer sealants also have greater life expediency than a carnauba wax.

Percentage of wax content- most carnaubas advertised with 50% or more Carnauba wax content is truly advertising a weight, not a volume. 30% by volume is about 50% by weight is about the maximum content (approx 35% Carnauba by volume makes it almost impossible to add/remove) that’s why you never can truly assess the amount of Carnauba in a manufactured wax unless the manufacturer specifically lists its content percentage by weight or volume. When making a comparison ensure you compare like with like i.e. % volume or % weight. The balance will be ; solvent, polymer, silicone, montan or mineral oils, beeswax, synthetics or other waxes

Fracture/evaporation temperatures - Polymers 350 oF, Silicone oil 350 oF, Mineral oils 200 oF, Synthetic blends (Carnauba wax / polymers) 200 oF, Carnauba wax 180 oF, and Bee’s wax 130 oF. In actual practice the high temperatures frequently encountered by vehicles from the radiation causes wax compounds to melt, for example, a painted surfaces exposed to ambient temperatures of 85 oF in direct sunlight, will obtain a temperature of 195 oF or more. It should be noted that there is a range of temperatures at which melting begins and that the ‘melting point’ is the end point of that range.

Application – Most Carnauba waxes work well using the WOWO (wipe on wipe off) method while still slightly damp but not completely dry. Generally apply a very thin layer, preferably with a distilled water primed foam applicator (hand or machine); allowing it to haze, then wiping off.

§ Wax set –up time is temperature / humidity dependant; humidity affects the application because Carnauba is inherently hygroscopic (absorbs moisture) if you notice dark streaks during the application of Carnauba waxes, it tells you that the humidity is high. This will also retard the set-up time.

§ As a wax ‘sets-up’, it goes through a number of stages.

1.The first stage is the application of the semi-liquid product; friction will cleanse the dirt, oxidization, old waxes etc. In effect you are lifting the dirt away from the paintwork and into the liquid wax and then into the applicator.

2.The next stage is that you leave the wax to haze. This is where the solvents and oils out gas (evaporate) and leave the resin and fillers behind to dry and set-up on the paint.

3.Next you remove the excess. Anything that is now not bonded to the paint will be wiped away with the buffing towel and as you wipe away you will end up giving the resin a slight buff to bring out its gloss

I would suggest you do a swipe-test (swipe the surface with your finger, if the wax is still liquid wait for a while and repeat) A good technique is to buff the wax and then spritz the paintwork with cold distilled water and wipe down just to add that little extra. Humidity affects the application because Carnauba is inherently hygroscopic (absorbs moisture) if you notice dark streaks during the application of Carnauba waxes, it tells you that the humidity is high. This will also retard the set-up time.

Carnauba wax will bond to a cross-linked polymer; conversely if a polymer is applied on top of a Carnauba wax it is unable to form a bond due to the waxes oil content. Generally you can expect 50% of your Carnauba wax layer to be gone after 30 days, 75% after 60 days and 95% gone after 90 days. You should plan on waxing your car four (4) times a year. You can extend the waxes life expectancy by parking in a garage, using a car cover and by using a quick detailer spray (QD) like Pinnacle Crystal Mist.

Storage- a refrigerator will provide a cooler temperatures and more constant humidity that will slow the evaporation of solvents from the wax, thus keeping the wax softer and easier to use over a longer period of time.

Beeswax has been traded for over 2000 years; references to “wax” before the 19th century typically meant beeswax. Yellow beeswax is secreted by bees to build honeycombs; the empty comb is melted in boiling water to recover the wax. Yellow beeswax can be bleached with oxidizing agents to white beeswax, a product favoured in the cosmetic industry. The composition of beeswax varies widely with geography and the diet of the bees forming the combs, but typical components are C25-C31 hydrocarbons, esters of C30 -C32 alcohols with C16 acids and free C25 – C31 carboxylic acids.

Beeswax polish is made by putting equal amounts of beeswax and turpentine in a container, with a lid to stop evaporation, and leaving it in a warm area where the wax will dissolve into the turpentine

Carnauba wax is recovered from a variety of palm tree which grows almost exclusively in north-eastern Brazil. Carnauba wax forms on the fronds of the trees and is recovered by cutting and drying the fronds, then mechanically removing the wax. Impurities are removed from the wax by melting and filtering or centrifuging.

Carnauba wax is distinguished by its hardness and high melt point, combined with an ability to disperse pigments such as carbon black, properties which make carnauba useful in printing inks. It is also used to gel organic solvents and oils as a component of solvent and paste formulations. Carnauba polishes to a high gloss, and is used to polish items such as leather products, candies, metal surfaces, etc.

Petroleum wax producers also characterise wax by degree of refinement: fully refined paraffin has oil content generally less than .5%, and fully-refined micro-crystalline less than 1.5%; “slack wax” – precursors to the fully refined versions in either case would have oil content above 2 and as high as 35% by weight.

Synthetic waxes – entered the wax market in the last 50 years or so. They are usually formulated from Polydimethylsiloxane (PDS) or dimethicone) silicon, which is a basically inert, water based, amino functional polymer resin, Carnauba wax and also contain substantial proportions of branched and cyclic saturated hydrocarbons in addition to normal alkenes. These synthetic waxes are more durable than the natural carnauba. All synthetic waxes have the same basic structure, but the various production processes yield products with distinctly different properties, and these have a major impact on the use of products

Products from one manufacturer may satisfy one particular application, while product from a similar process will not work well at all. Major uses include hot-melt adhesives for applications requiring high-temperature performance, additives to improve the processing of plastics, and slip and rub additives for inks, paints and cosmetics. The word wax usually refers to a variety of organic substances that are solid at ambient temperature but become free-flowing liquids at slightly higher temperatures.

Note- many waxes and polymer sealants actually look better after 24 hours and /or an initial post-application wash

Unless you are using a cleaner-wax there is no need to use pressure on the applicator, just enough to make contact with the surface should suffice. Order of product application- hood- roof-trunk from front to back and, where practical, the quarter panels- door panels- and bumpers from top to bottom. Washing, claying and waxing that way effects the way light reflects off the body panels and is also less likely to show the surface marring or swirls that you will invariably make. (See also Melting Point, Wax (basic components), Polymer Wax Differences)

Information resource- National Petrochemical & Refiners Association (NPAC) – NPRA – Wax Q & A Relevant MSDS information

Wax (basic components): Although somewhat more complex than other products, waxes and sealants only involve very basic chemistry, when a chemist formulates a wax or sealant, several factors are taken into account; ease of application and removal, cleaning and / or filling ability (if required), depth of gloss, shine, durability and resistance to rain / detergents / car wash concentrate.

Unfortunately, no one wax or sealant product can meet all of the above characteristics. If one characteristic is emphasized and / or enhanced, it will be to the detriment of another. For example, increased durability means that application and removal can be more difficult. Or, if cleaning capability is emphasized, the depth of shine will decrease. The best wax or sealant to use is one that provides as many of the characteristics as possible to achieve a shiny, durable finish. Because the ingredients for each of these features work against each other inovative chemistry and a creative chemist are needed

The basic components used in waxes and sealants are;

§ Solvents or mineral oils- used for chemical cleaning, and as a carrier system, it also makes products workable and to provide spread ability, as is the case with Carnauba wax, which in its natural state is rock hard.

§ Emulsifiers – to stabilize the product (oil and water) and make it easier to use

§ Very-light abrasives – to provide mild cleaning and to aid the wax in drying consistently for easy wipe-off

§ Surfactant- defined as a material that can greatly reduce the surface tension of liquids

§ Silicone- is primarily used to modify or improve certain characteristics; i.e. shine, or added as a lubricant to enhance application.

§ Colouring- purely aesthetic / marketing

§ Fragrance- appealing fragrances help to sell the product

§ Polymers – most waxes are formulated with, amongst other things, polymer resins that once cured provide transparency and improve longevity

The unique structure makes these products very effective when used in additive amounts to modify the properties of paraffin wax, primarily for use in candles. The products can increase the hardness and opacity of the paraffin with minimal impact on cloud point or viscosity.

Paints from different (DuPont, PPG, BASF, etc) manufacturers do not favour one wax over another; there is no factual basis for custom coloured waxes with pigment dyes to mach original paint, the clear coat is applied for both protection of the colour coat and to give it depth, while allowing the paint colour to show through, some marques clear coat paints vary i.e. some are softer/ thinner etc. If you apply a non-clear wax or sealant, or a custom coloured wax it will only mute the paints colour and depth of shine.

Two Exciting Days

If you remember i been very busy and allot of things have been going on with Allure Detail lately am just trying to catch up with everything.

So i spent the weekend of March 14-15 in the beautiful city of Oceanside, Ca. Let me just say that i Love California sunshine. Anyways the reason i spent the weekend there was because i was informed a great machine that would change my life. So i goggle Mel Craig the owner of The Total Pros. Mel  has classes that teach and sharpen your skills on detailing, how the business can be ran, and how you can benefit from running your own business. He just inked a deal with Meguiers products, and is one of the creators of this new machine that’s low pressure washer.

So on Saturday i head out to Oceanside and i get there 1 hour early. i had been very excited all week just waiting for this moment and finally it was here. I met Mel and let me just say great guy but he runs around the whole building like a mad man. but i understand that running a seminar with 15+ people and 4 employees is very hard and frustrating.  So the first half of the day we spend it by listening to Mel and what hes been through in the past 15+ years detailing all the ups and downs, all the mistakes, and all his learning experience and knowledge on this field. Half of the time am knotting my head agreeing with the man on the mistakes his done and the other half i want Monday to show up. I mean this guy got me pump, ready to out there  promote, sell and up sell.

I had reached a point in my life were i just didn’t know what to do. How to increase sells, How to keep my customers because of the competition, how to get more customers, i was getting backed up against the wall. and let me just say that after just listening to this man for 1 hour i was ready to get to work, I kept on taking notes all weekend just absorbing information like a sponge. asking questions, trowing ideas working in my head what i was gonna do first as soon as i got home. man am i stoked.

At the seminar i also had the pleasure of meeting Jim Fitzpatrick. He’s the president of So. California’s Pronto Wash. Another great man that took the time of explaining what is going on with water conservation, what cities are doing to regulate the detailing business, and whats in store for the future. this business is changing, its a business that’s not regulated so much by the cities, or even the government. We can do what ever we want will tell cities that were using mats to trap the water and will never take the mat out of its box. there no one to regulate the consuming of water or how we dispose of it even if we do collect it. Jim gave me a great lead Calabasas right now is one of the first cities to restrict Mobile Car Washing. you must get your license, register your vehicle and get a permit that allows you to work in the city. they also give you a sign that you must display in front of the building or house your working at.The best part is that they promote your business as a safe Eco-Friendly company.

I might not know much but about 2 years ago when i started to hear about Water conservation and how the mayor’s and cities were asking for less water usage. I asked myself what was gonna happen with my detailing business if we were ever told that washing cars was no longer possible because of droughts that were going on. what was i was gonna?  was i going to do it behind buildings and risk getting caught?  and so comes T.H.E.B.O.S.S. “Battery Operated Solution System”  took me a while to learn this. I could not come home without one, i had to purchase this machine why? because its the future whether people choose to except it. and i believe in it. i believe so much in it that i went back that same week and purchased 1 more for demonstrations.

Through out California Two things are happening One, Were Broke, and Two were in  a drought. That mean that California needs money and so why not start giving more tickets out and fining more people that are doing wrong and fine them too. That means Detailers, Carpet Cleaners, Side walk Washers, Car Washers, and Home Owners are the people that the city is going after why? Because were so used to consuming water with no care in the world. Car washes use 2 gallons of water to make 1 gallon on spot-free water. most Detailers carry 100 gallon tanks in there vans thats 300 gallons being used. that’s allot of water being thrown away.

The purpose of the boss is to make us more earth-friendly and more accepted by our communities since were doing a part with out being pushed into doing it. which shows more responsibility from our part.

Been Away for quite sometime!!!

Allure Detail has been doing some major changes, some of you have noticed that Jason has not posted in quite some time and there hasn’t been any new pictures in the gallery. Jason has been really busy with his photography, clients calling and referrals trying to book him. So he has asked me to take over Allure and take this business to greater heights. Ill do my best to bring Allure to you company or home and always give my 100%.

My name is Josh Cortez and I’ve been doing details and car washes for the past 6 years, been doing so long I’ve seen people come and go, I’ve had companies come and go. I’ve learned that You can’t satisfy everyone  because 1) its a very competing business  2) allot of knowledge to conquer and tring to stay up with new products is expensive and time consuming and 3) most people that don’t care about there car go with the cheapest labor and products possible, “whatever” i cant do all the cars in Los Angeles any how, so i leave the cheap ones to people who are starting out, learning to use products or just buy the machines from some other detail-er and call them self “detailers” the next day. i called them “overnight success”. ” I’m starting to like this typing thing its very therapeutic.

We are a company that is registered to one of the toughest city’s to allow detailers in there area Santa Monica. Since they are a very water Conservative city,  there’s allot of rules and regulations that i must follow ( its hard). We are also a company that is insured for 1 million dollars and 6k for garage keepers. Now most people over look this but let me give you a example. say you hire some one for $15 to wash your car and while his moving it he bumps, scratches, or hits your car. Now this person has two options confess to the error his made and cough up $300+ to have it fixed or run, run as fast as he can. Do i encourage this? NO, why? because now the insured detailer looks bad. and we have to pay for someone Else’s mistake. Now his allowed to run because with $15 its hard for someone to pay gas, products, machines, insurance, license  website, brochures and so many other things. so they cut what they feel is not necessary, insurance, website and license. so how can you contact someone you have no info on? he should of charged whats reasonable so when your in trouble you got help. Please hire some one who is Insured for your safety.

 

Now am new to this blogging “thing” and Just a little info on me. I speak my mind but always with the facts in hand and enough ammo to defend myself just in case i need to explain myself to someone that has questions or does not believe what am typing. Please understand that anything i talk about here is what am feeling and thinking at the time of this posting, Sure sometimes certain things my sound like a run off sentence and i apologize in advance ( rarely apologize) i will give you knowledge and info on car washing, detailing, life experiences, things I’ve seen on the road and things that bother me. … it will never be to offend anyone, maybe question your opinion and were your facts come from.

This blogging is to give insight on what my daily or even weekly life brings forth to me or you other detailers out there with every detail we encounter. I Encourage other detailers to post there questions  and share pics or give there opinion on any postings. Why would i bring other detailers to conversate with us? because YOU are a customer that deserves the truth on what products are being applied on Your vehicle and side effects that might happen if not applied properly from 3m, 3d products, maguires, and chemical guys. you deserve all the info and if possible the MSDS sheets. Also what you need to do  to your car if you wanna spend some time with your baby believe me i understand. please feel free to ask any ? or concerns that you might have. every thing will be answered with adequate and timely response

 

Well enjoy my postings and please check back weekly. Am behind like 4 weeks in posting so there’s allot of things i need to share with you. pictures i need to change.

Again thank you Jason for giving us the opportunity to take this company to the next level. best of luck on you’re Photography and anything else you touch. you need a favor consider it done.

Here’s our first move that we have done since we got this website